Stavanger was the last port on this voyage. Saga had rearranged new ports of call for the ship after all the storms had stopped our progress going North. Stavanger and Flåm were ports that we had not been originally scheduled to call at. In Flåm we had travelled on the railway and then cruised small fjords. In Stavanger we were going on a boat trip down the Lysefjord to pass below Pulpit Rock. Again, just like Flåm this was all unscheduled and we looked forward to the day!
Day 14: Friday 3rd March 2023: Stavanger
After a breakfast upstairs in the grill, we left the ship and went for a walk. Spirit of Discovery was docked below Stavanger Old Town.
Across from where our ship was docked was the Danish HDMS Iver Huitfeldt frigate visiting the port. This is an air defence frigate and its design is the basis for the Royal Navy’s Type 31 frigates.
As we passed the shops they were beginning to open. For this visit to Stavanger, we had agreed not to go looking for street art but to keep to the centre of the town. But, we did pass this art!
Winter Cruise on the Lysefjord
After our walk we went back onboard for our fjord cruise. So we were again back in the theatre. There we were given our trip number. We left the ship with lots of other passengers to board the boat for the trip. This meant a walk up the quay and then around the corner and a few hundred meters further up opposite the souvenir shops to the boat.
Duration: 3 hours
Winter Lysefjord Cruise Walking Grade: EasyPulpit Rock is one of south west Norway’s most popular tourist attractions. Towering 1,982 feet above the Lysefjord, this flat mountain plateau was called Hyvlatanna or ‘planed tooth’ in ancient times. It is a much-photographed landmark and its bare rock tabletop shape is in stark contrast to the green slopes and mountainsides that surround it.
Having boarded the boat, exclusively chartered for Saga guests, you sail across to Lysefjord. a ribbon-like waterway that stretches 30 miles into the heart of the fjordlands, flanked on both sides by steep slopes, verdant mountainsides and the occasional small, picturesque farm. You pass directly below Pulpit Rock and pause for a while at the eerie Vagabond’s Cave. Refreshments will be served onboard as you sail back to the quayside in Stavanger.
Leaving Stavanger for Lysefjord
This was a private trip and Saga had also arranged for us to have a guide. It was great having a guide as we found out about all the places that we were passing.For example, one of the islands that had a few houses on it, but when we looked at it, it was covered in vegetation and trees. Our guide had lived on the island and told us a little of its history.
On the island there had been just one big house, which was the home of a shipping line owner. The island was bare rock at that time. When his ships returned to Stavanger from anywhere in the world and needed to have ballast he had mandated that his captain’s used soil for the ballast from wherever they were in the world. This soil was then all dumped on the island.
Over the years, the rock island became covered with soil from all over the world. The soil of course included lots of seeds again from all over the world. So that now the island has a completely eco-system completely unique to Norway.
And then we were in open water and the boat accelerated to get to Lysefjord.
On Lysefjord
Our guide explained that this was the fish hatchery past Oanes.
Then we came to the bridge that crossed over the fjord.
We past large fish farms.
The boat did pause at the spot where many years ago, a resident of Stavanger had hidden from the local authorities as he refused to pay what he regarded as the exorbitant taxes of the town.
We could also see the postbox used to deliver his mail.
The boat docked for about ten minutes to take on food and drink for the special treat that we would get later.
As we approached Pulpit Rock the guide pointed out to us the place where boats used to drop visitors who wanted to go to see the rock. From there, they would have had a steep climb.
In the boat’s cabin waffles with black coffee was served. Even better the waffles were accompanied with lashings of jam. I watched the fjord walls pass as we approached Pulpit Rock.
Pulpit Rock
From our guide, we learnt that visitors now have a coach ride, followed by a hike to the cliff edge when visiting the rock. Our guide described how he regularly took visitors to the rock. His descriptions of the photo opportunities that this gave visitors was frankly alarming. The thought of sitting on the edge of the cliff by the rock with your feet hanging over was just not something I would’ve been prepared to do.
Once past Pulpit Rock we could see further up the fjord a layer of sea ice. The boat was not suitable to break this ice, so after the rock, we turned around and retraced our route back to the Stavanger.
Sea Eagles
Then above us, we watched Sea Eagles soaring above the high cliffs.
Then we left Lysefjord and headed back to Stavanger.
Shopping in Stavanger
Opposite where the boat had docked are our favourite souvenir shops in Stavanger. We had plenty of time to look at the offers on Nordic jackets and local souvenirs.
Leaving Stavanger
Then we went back onboard for a late lunch. Spirit of Discovery left Stavanger in the afternoon.
Outside we enjoyed the views of the Stavanger as we left. Around the pool we were served with waffles and were entertained by Viva.
After the ship had reached the North Sea and turned South, we relaxed in our cabin and watched another movie.
The Helen Wilding Show
After dinner in the grand dining room we went to The Playhouse to see Helen Wilding perform.
Helen had recorded YouTube videos of her singing to accompany her show.
Her set finished with a bang!
ABBA songs in the Britannia Lounge
Then was a ABBA night in the Britannia lounge. this was from the ship’s entertainers.
After the ship’s entertainers we had ABBA the from the house band too!
Back in our cabin we noticed that unlike our leisurely sail to Norway the ship was now running at 18 knots.
Overnight the ship’s clocks changed to UK time.