We had had the Northern Lights on the evening before our arrival in Flåm. This was another port added to replace our scheduled itinerary up above the Arctic Circle. Saga had arranged for an excursion on the train from Flåm that goes up to the top of the mountains – what a fabulous prospect.
Day 12: Wednesday 1st March 2023: Flåm
After a relaxed breakfast of Eggs Benedict in the Grill on Deck 12 we left the ship.
Flåm is a small place and we walked past the one bar and a few hotels and soon reached the railway station.
The Flåm railway museum
Past the railway station we spent quite some time in the (free) railway museum. The models of the Flåm railway were especially interesting as this helped visualise the route up the mountain.
The sections of the museum about the building of the railway were equally fascinating. The manual labour to dig the tunnels was only matched by the way the workers were paid. This was by the meter for a gang of four. They had to pay for their tools and for the sharpening of their tools as well as pay extras for any dynamite used.
Also in the museum was a collection of rail cars used to ride along the tracks. These were for inspecting the tracks.
Some were adapted motorcycles and others were rather more developed with covered bodies. There was a history of the fatalities using these rail cars when trans hit them. So many so that now their use on all of Norway’s railways was eventually stopped.
Head of Aurlandsfjord
From the museum we walked around the road at the head of Aurlandsfjord. The icicles and re-frozen water made interesting patterns on the rocks at the side of the road.
Afternoon on the Flåmsbana
THE FAMOUS FLAM RAILWAY
Duration: 2 Hours and 45 minutes Walking Grade: Easy
Price: Included
On this easy-paced excursion, you can enjoy one of Europe’s most impressive and scenic train rides, savouring the journey without the worry of walking excessive distances. The Flåm Railway provides wonderful vistas of the mountains and waterfalls that characterise this beautiful part of Norway. In order to ensure the best possible views the train will proceed slowly and even stop at the finest sections so you have time to take in the dramatic scenery and take photographs. See the stunning Kjosfossen Waterfall where, according to local legend, a ghostly female figure has occasionally been seen.
Your train ride takes you 2,850 feet up a mountain gorge and reaches its destination at Myrdal, where you can alight for a few minutes to take photos of the snow-capped mountains and explore the station, or remain seated before returning directly to Flåm.
After lunch back on the ship we queued for the tour to start in the theatre as before. Then we made our way to the railway platforms to wait for our train.
When the train arrived we were surprised just how many people were walking towards us down the platform, leaving the train
This excursion off the ship was very popular and soon there was a large crowd of passengers waiting to be told to board the train.
On the Flåmsbana
The Spirit of Discovery passengers were all directed down the side of the platform to the first few carriages. Once in the carriage we sat on the right hand side hoping that this would give us some good views.
We had a guide assigned to our carriage and she gave us a commentary both up and down the mountain. The carriage also had a TV monitor with two showing running video with details of the line.
Unfortunately the sound kept failing especially on the way down the mountain.
The train stopped at the Kjosfossen waterfall. The front carriages of the train were in the tunnel beyond the falls but we were lucky as our carriage was just at the tunnel entrance.
The falls were all ice maybe not as spectacular as when we seen it before when it was running water.
As we neared the top of the railway we passed houses at the side of the track.
Myrdal Station
When the train reached the summit we had time to leave the train and stretch our legs. The platforms were all covered in snow.
The connecting train to the rest of Norway arrived on the next platform. After a short wait we started our descent back down to Flåm.
Back down the Flåmsbana
At the suggestion of the tour guide we were asked to swap to the other side of the carriage.
Another stop at the frozen Kjosfossen waterfall.
This side definitely didn’t have as great views. I eventually walked up the carriage to find a free door so that I could get a better view of the journey.
The Ægir microbrewery
After leaving the train we went to the nearby Ægir bar. This has become a place to visit whenever we are in Flåm.
It is shaped like a teepee and has a sunken floor in the middle with today a roaring log fire. Up above is a mezzanine where extra guests go to eat. We sat at one of the tables by the door and enjoyed a couple of drinks.
The barman was from Ireland and gave lots of banter as everyone crowded in to pick up beers. The beer may have been expensive but as a local brew it did taste good.
Evening docked in Flåm
Dinner was back in the speciality Grand Dinner Room and was again excellent.
