Completing the 12 day Coastal Express by Hurtigruten from Bergen up and then down the coast of Norway has been on my wish list ever since we did the South bound voyage.
We had booked the voyage leaving on the 16th of February on MS Nordlys. This voyage had had a special deal and included chartered flights to and from Norway. But later in the year we were emailed that this ship was now scheduled to go into dock for upgrades. After telephone negotiations we moved the voyage to start on the 17th February but initially there were no flights available.
Then after paying our balance, our new statement did include details of a Norwegian flight from Gatwick to Bergen. We also received our vouchers for transfers to and from Bergen airport.
Norwegian Airline
After more calls to Hurtigruten, we learnt that responsibility for the flight bookings had transferred to us. The Norwegian website was not clear about baggage allowances and my calls to them were for a very simple plea for clarification. The confusion arose because the airline had multiple classes all with different allowances.
After a few false starts we finally filled in the advanced passenger details on the website. The next requirement was to downline the airline’s app onto my phone. The app’s online check-in was available exactly 48 hours before the flight. Plus according to the app we could have both overhead and under seat cabin baggage.
The weight limit for hold baggage was the usual 23 kg. One of our lightweight cases have been damaged on the flight back from Tenerife earlier. The good news was that we still had our old more rugged suitcases. The bad news was that they weighed 5 kg before we packed any clothes!
To our surprise our final weights were 20 and 18 kg respectively. Unlike our regular trips, we did not need to pack casual or formal evening wear which certainly saved weight. We did however have fleeces and second coats plus a lot of cold weather clothes. Just in case of lost luggage we split our clothes 50-50 between the cases.
The Coastal Voyage: Saturday 17th February 2024: Bergen
Our taxi came at 5 am for our drive to South Terminal at Gatwick Airport.
Norwegian had not opened the check-in gates when we arrived. We used the airport terminals to get copies of our boarding passes and our luggage labels while we waited. We chatted to other passengers in the queue. The lady behind us was joining a Havilla ship in Bergen for their coastal voyage. This would’ve been a different experience as flights and transfers were her responsibility. Hurtigruten may not communicate very well, but we had been spared some of these extra hassles.
After check in security was unusually quiet and apart from my hand cleaner in Linda’s carry on everything went smoothly. Our air-side breakfast was porridge at Pret a Manger.
The Norwegian app pinged with the gate number a few minutes before 7:55 am. The holding lounge was very full by the time boarding was called. This was by group number coupled with row numbers. Rows 1 to 16 used the jetway and 16 to 25 had to go down the steps and out onto the apron and then boarding through the rear doors.
The 737 had to hold for over 10 minutes before taking off at around 9:20 am.
Flight to Bergen
After climbing through clouds, I had great views of the North Sea under a blue sky with a wispy clouds away on the horizon.
At one point below I could see oil platforms and then what look like two grey ships in formation. One being much larger than the other. Maybe HMS Prince of Wales and HMS Portland on their way to Norway for exercises too?
As we came into Bergen, the views of the islands were spectacular. In the hollows we could see the remnants of earlier snowfalls.
Into Bergen
Once off the plane, it was the usual long walk to join the immigration queue to get stamps into our passports. Our luggage was already on the carousel. Land side was full of Viking cruises representatives looking for their passengers.
Our Flybus was at the stand opposite the exit and then we could relax for the drive into Bergen. The bus went through parts of the city that we had never visited before. Especially as on one corner I spotted a Banksy mural.
The FlyBus’ route took us to many stops including through the narrow streets to the Radisson Blue on the Brygge. Then the bus started back to the airport. The Hurtigruten terminal was one of the stops on the way back.
Hurtigruten’s Bergen terminal
Trollfjord was already docked at the terminal. This meant that we had to stay out of the lounges as her passengers had to go through safety briefing before going on board.
While we waited, I set off looking for supermarkets to pick up some lunch. We sat upstairs outside the lounges to wait. Then we were queueing to check-in our suitcases. The queue was progressing very slowly when MS Nordcapp arrived. Everything then stopped as lots of passengers began to disembark.
While we waited, we had a coffee in the lounge and we called for checking the area around the desk was now packed. We threaded our way to our cases and join the queue once again.
Lost wallet!
In the queue I realise my wallet was missing. I dashed back the supermarket to check to see if it was there. I cancelled my credit card and then found an email telling me that my wallet had been found.
Unfortunately my Good Samaritan had already left the centre of Bergen. After exchanging emails he agreed to cut up my credit card, put my wallet in the post and perhaps to transfer any money left over to me via PayPal. I did ask him to make absolutely sure that he wasn’t out of pocket.
After check-in, we were allowed into the lounge. There we waited for the safety briefing to take place. We watched cartoons showing how to put on the cold water survival suits. This looked definitely very easy for the cartoon characters. Very different than the efforts of the able seamen that we had watched on Fram or Spitzbergen actually having to do it live.
MS Nordkapp
We were then scanned as we left to confirm our attendance and then scanned again as we boarded the ship. Time for a rest!
I had no idea how much wine or a large beer cost but they were what we needed after our time at the terminal.
Our cabin was in the bow of the ship on the starboard side. This had been the only choice of cabin after we had had to switch ships. There were two portholes each with a very heavy cover.
After unpacking we went to the restaurant for our buffet dinner after it had opened at 6:30 pm. Then at 7:30 pm we had our first lecture from the excursion team.
Leaving Bergen
And under the bridge leaving Bergen behind at 8:45 pm.
The Coastal Voyage started proper when we called at the first port, Florø, at around 2:24 am on Sunday. This is when I started my plan to be out on deck for every port.
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