After our hectic day in Bilbao we looked forward to going onto the beach at Soulac-sur-Mer. This would be our second visit to Soulac-sur-Mer.
Day 5: Friday 12th April 2024: Le Verdon
Sky Princess docked at the (empty) container port after 6:30 am.
After an early breakfast in the buffet, we were out on the dock catching one of the first shuttle buses to Soulac. This would be our second visit to the village and we were excited to be going onto the beach.
Soulac-sur-Mer
The drop-off was at the top of the pedestrian Street, Rue de la Plage. We were definitely early as the street in front of us was empty as far as the I could see the shops were only just beginning to open as we walked down.
On the left, we visited the market hall of Soulac-sur-Mer. Through the hall is a small car park and beyond that is a small Spar supermarket.
The café and bars on the street that ran parallel to the beach were also closed.
Le Neptune
We then walked back down the Rue de la Plage until we sat outside “Le Neptune “for a coffee and an early break.
Also outside with a couple of ladies from Ireland and an American musician from New York. He was telling us about working in Soulac and about how busy the place became in high season. We shared stories and trivia about favourite musicians of music while we sat the street in front of us was filling up with lots of visitors.
On Soulac-sur-Mer’s beach
For our next stop had to be back on the beach. The small wooden café just on the beach had now gone and strangely the beach in front of us was now crossed with fences on top of small dunes. The Atlantic was at low tide and we opted to stay on one of the fenced dunes to enjoy the rest of the morning.
The peace was shattered by loud horns and then and very loud engine noises. Looking towards our left, I could see two large Volvo earth movers racing along the seashore. They moved out from the sea as they came below Soulac-sur-Mer and then continued to head up the peninsula.
At the breakwater, we could see a mobile crane that was digging up sand and putting it into the first of the earthmovers. once the earthmover was filled with sand it headed back down the beach. As it did three more earth movers appeared from the left.
The people on the beach by the sea had to get across a “road“ in the sand. The earth movers were having to blow their horns to make sure that parents and children moved out of their way.
Out of curiosity, I did go down to the sea and watch the earth movers race past.
Further down the beach away from Soulac-sur-Mer the earth movers did splash through the Atlantic rather than stick to the beach. This constant traffic moving sand continued the whole time that we were on the beach.
Once the temperature in the open became too much for us, we walked off the beach through all the crowds.
Rue de la Plage
The Rue de la Plage was now similarly packed with visitors.
The market hole was closed and even more upsetting to me was that the Spar shop was also closed. My French fruit jam “fix” would have to wait.
The food stall that had offered large crepes was not open. The one next door did not look too appetising to us.
Bistro Tartines et Compagnie
Further down the Place Georges Mandel, we noticed one of the small cafés was open, the Bistro Tartines et Compagnie.
We sat at the back while we were checking the menu, we watched the owner rush backwards and forwards serving the tables outside. Across from us sat an elderly gentleman. Unfortunately, his BO was so strong that we had to move to another table at the front of the café as soon as it became free.
We ordered Croque Monsieurs and beers. I had my back to the outside and my attention eventually strange the paper mat in front of me. This gave lots of information about the upcoming “1900” Soulac-sur-Mer festival that celebrated the “Golden era“ of the town. This was to be on the first weekend of June.
To keep interest going, the mat had a challenge to identify the differences between the two images of participants who were dressed up for the “Belle Epoque”.
When our lunch came we realised that just one Croque Monsieurs would have been enough for both of us!
One of the brochures on display gave the details of the ferry over the river to Royan from Le Verdon.
The tables around us were filling up with French families as we left the café.
More exploring
Over the Rue de la Plage we explored a couple of the side streets looking at the clothes and curio shops and some art.
The car park outside the medieval church was only a short walk up from the town hall and we there caught the waiting shuttle bus.
Back to Le Verdon
These are some of the views from the shuttle bus on the roads back to the dock.
The journey back to the dock gave me the opportunity to look at more of the WW2 German block houses that had been built to protect the peninsula.
Views from Sky Princess at Le Verdon
Leaving Le Verdon
On her way out to the Bay of Biscay, Sky Princess past close enough to Royan to be able to see the resort.
The next point of interest was the lighthouse – La Coubre.
Later in the evening we were out in the Bay of Biscay.
The evening entertainment on offer didn’t appeal to us so after dinner it was another early night.
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